Ulla Johnson Fall 2025: A Gilded Departure

Extra about course of than prints, fall 2025 was a departure for Ulla Johnson, who mentioned she wished to carry a brand new stage of craft and materiality to her assortment.

Upping the opulence, she celebrated the act of self-adornment with wealthy texture and metallics in a lineup that hewed towards the bohemian development that’s been effervescent again up once more, one which Johnson is aware of properly.

The seek for couture-level materials yielded the good gilded cloque on the opening look, a rippling gold zip-front costume worn with a black turtleneck and forged flower cuff bracelets commissioned by French artist Julie Camisky, whose bronze sculpture anchored the runway on Sunday morning.

Johnson labored with a variety of artisans. Claudy Jongstra, the Dutch textile artist identified for monumental felted wool creations, hand-felted natural-dyed panels for one-of-a-kind coats that had a mottled look. Different artist companions hand-painted gestural gold brushstrokes onto noir chiffon robes. Knits spanned rustic and craftsy to sophisticated, with hand-embroidered crystals or crocheted rosettes.

Bohemian ethereal silk crepe robes, Byzantine brocades and sheer bow blouses, skirts and attire added to the wealthy lineup grounded in delicate tailoring, coloured leathers and shearlings for women and men.

“There was a little bit of an homage to my mom,” Johnson mentioned of her mother, Jasmina Draskovic Johnson, who not too long ago handed. “I actually hint a lot of my work and my passions to the issues that she has taught me. She was an archeologist, but in addition an actual nomad who lived a thousand lives. A type of lives was portray icons. I keep in mind so clearly the scent of turpentine, and he or she would sit there and apply the gold leaf layer by layer, to realize that luster…that diploma of craft…it was one thing she did to connect with her nation,” Johnson defined of her mom’s Serbian heritage. “So there are all these threads that come via us.”

And reside on and on.